Everything you need to fit your panelling properly, the first time.
This guide covers preparation, tools, fixing methods and safety for every panel kit, dado rail and moulding we sell — written for the same products listed on our product pages. Each individual product page also includes installation notes specific to that exact kit, so use this page alongside the listing for your order.
Last updated & effective: 25 June 2026
About this guide
What it covers, who it's for, and where to look for kit‑specific detail.
All of our panelling, dado rails and mouldings are designed to be fitted by the person buying them — most customers are homeowners completing a weekend project, with a smaller number of tradespeople, landlords and interior designers ordering for multiple rooms. We've written this page as the master reference for installing any product in our range, covering wall preparation, tools, fixing methods for different wall types, weight and handling, and the safety points worth knowing before you start.
Because every kit varies slightly in panel size, thickness and material, the product page for the exact item you've ordered also includes a short "Installation" tab with steps tailored to that specific kit. If anything on this page and your product page ever seems to conflict, the product page takes priority — and you're always welcome to email or message us before you start if you'd rather double‑check first.
Who this page is for
First‑time DIYers fitting a single feature wall, experienced renovators tackling a full room, and trade or bulk customers installing across several properties. Wherever you fall on that scale, the steps below are the same — only the scale of the job changes.
Is professional installation required?
In short: not usually — but here's how to judge it for your own project.
Our panelling, dado rails and mouldings are designed as a do‑it‑yourself product. Most orders are fitted by the customer using the tools listed further down this page, and no specialist trade qualification is needed to cut, fix or paint standard MDF or pine panelling onto a typical domestic wall. Lunaire Works manufactures and supplies the materials — we don't offer a fitting or installation service ourselves, so any installer or tradesperson you bring in is engaged directly by you, not booked through us.
That said, we'd rather you ask for help than struggle through a job that isn't right for a first attempt. Consider a qualified tradesperson if any of the following apply to your project.
- The job involves moving, removing or working around electrical sockets, switches or wiring — always use a registered electrician for this.
- You're unsure what's behind your existing wall finish (older plaster, textured coatings, or a solid wall of unknown construction).
- You're not confident using a saw, drill or other cutting tool, or have never made mitred or socket cut‑outs before.
- You're in a rented property and need landlord permission or a guaranteed, insured finish.
Tools & materials checklist
Standard DIY tools — nothing trade‑only or specialist. Your exact list depends on the fixing method you choose.
Measuring & cutting
- Tape measure and a spirit level
- Pencil or masking tape for marking your layout
- Hand saw, mitre saw or circular saw for cutting panels to length
- Sandpaper or a sanding block for smoothing cut edges
Fixing
- Strong grab adhesive suitable for wood and your wall surface
- Panel pins, finishing nails or screws if you're adding a mechanical fix
- A drill and wall plugs if fixing into masonry, brick or render
- A second pair of hands for longer panels, dado rails and stair runs
Safety & PPE
- An FFP2 or FFP3‑rated dust mask for cutting and sanding MDF
- Safety glasses or goggles when cutting, drilling or sanding
- Work gloves for handling cut panels with rough edges
- A stable step ladder for stairwell and high‑wall sections
Filling & finishing
- Decorator's filler or caulk for joins, panel pin holes and gaps
- MDF primer or a suitable undercoat
- Your chosen emulsion or paint for the final finish
- A sealant for cut edges if installing moisture‑resistant MDF in a bathroom or kitchen
Step‑by‑step installation
The general sequence we recommend for any panel, dado rail or moulding kit.
Check and prepare the wall
Make sure the surface is clean, dry and free of dust, grease or loose material. Identify what your wall is made of — plasterboard, masonry, render or tiled — since this decides which fixing method to use in step 5.
Plan and mark your layout
Lay your panels out on the floor first (or sketch the run on paper) to plan spacing, sockets, corners and any stair angles before fixing anything. Mark your layout lightly with a pencil or masking tape and check it's level.
Measure and cut to size
Use a hand saw, mitre saw or circular saw to cut panels and mouldings to length, including any cut‑outs for sockets or switches. Sand any rough or cut edges smooth before fixing.
Dry‑fit before you commit
Hold or lightly tape each piece in position before applying adhesive or fixings, to confirm spacing, levels and corner joins look right. This is the easiest stage to fix mistakes — adjustments get harder once adhesive is applied.
Fix the panel to the wall
Apply a strong grab adhesive in beads across the back of the panel, press it firmly into place, and check it's straight with a level. See "Wall types & fixing methods" below for guidance on adhesive versus mechanical fixings for your specific wall.
- For extra security on plasterboard, fix panel pins or screws into the studs or noggins behind the board, not just the plasterboard skin.
- For masonry or solid walls, drill and use wall plugs with screws, or a masonry‑rated adhesive.
Fill, sand and seal joins
Use decorator's filler or caulk between panel joins and over any pin or screw holes. Once dry, lightly sand for a seamless, paint‑ready finish. If you've used moisture‑resistant MDF in a bathroom or kitchen, seal all cut and exposed edges before painting.
Prime and paint
Apply an MDF‑suitable primer, followed by two coats of a good‑quality emulsion or your chosen finish. Work in a well‑ventilated room and allow each coat to dry fully before the next.
Aftercare
Wipe down with a soft, slightly damp cloth and a mild detergent when needed — see "Aftercare & maintenance" further down this page for full guidance.
Wall types & fixing methods
What's behind your wall determines the right way to fix your panelling — here's how we'd approach each.
Plasterboard (stud or dot‑and‑dab)
A strong grab adhesive is usually sufficient on its own for lightweight slatted panels. For dado rails, heavier mouldings or extra peace of mind, locate the studs or noggins behind the board and add panel pins or screws into the timber — not just into the plasterboard skin, which won't hold a mechanical fixing on its own.
Masonry, brick, blockwork or render
Solid backgrounds take both adhesive and mechanical fixings well. For the most secure fix, drill and use wall plugs with screws; a masonry‑rated grab adhesive is a good option where drilling isn't practical. Always check for hidden pipework or cabling before drilling.
Tiled or sealed, glossy surfaces
Adhesive needs a surface it can actually grip, so lightly abrade or degrease tiled or glossy areas first. Mechanical fixing through tile isn't usually practical, so choosing the right adhesive for a non‑porous surface matters more here — check the adhesive manufacturer's guidance before you buy.
Surfaces we'd hold off on
Loose or bubbling wallpaper, flaking paint, and damp or actively crumbling plaster need to be properly prepared — stripped, repaired and fully dried out — before panelling goes up. Fixing onto an unstable surface will fail eventually regardless of how good the adhesive or fixings are.
Weight, coverage & handling
Each product page lists the total weight of that specific kit — for example, our Cheshire Mouldings tongue and groove kit (8 panels, 9mm thick) weighs around 7.5kg in total. Bulk and trade orders made up of several kits will weigh significantly more, so plan delivery and unpacking accordingly.
Because panels are bonded across their full surface area rather than hung from a single bracket or hook, the wall only needs to support the weight of the panelling itself — there's no single‑point load rating to worry about, unlike a shelf or wall‑mounted unit. If you plan to hang a mirror, shelf or TV bracket onto a panelled wall, fix it into the solid wall or stud behind the panel, not into the thin MDF itself, since standard 6–9mm MDF isn't designed to carry additional point loads.
- Check the stated kit weight on your product page before delivery day, especially for bulk or multi‑kit orders.
- Lift with your knees rather than your back, and get a second person for heavier or longer boxes.
- Clear a path to your installation room before carrying panels, especially on stairs.
- Fix any extra hanging items into the wall or stud behind the panel, not into the panel material alone.
Safety warnings
Please read this section before you start cutting, fixing or painting.
Dust & cutting
Cutting or sanding MDF creates fine dust that can irritate the eyes, nose and airways. The UK Health and Safety Executive recommends an FFP2 or FFP3‑rated dust mask and good ventilation whenever you're cutting or sanding board material — work outdoors or in a well‑ventilated space where you can. Wear eye protection and gloves when operating saws, drills or sanders, and keep children and pets away from the work area while tools are in use.
Electrics & older walls
Always isolate the power at the consumer unit before removing or working around any socket or switch plate; if you're not confident doing this, use a qualified, registered electrician, in line with the electrical safety requirements set out under Part P of the Building Regulations. If your home was built or decorated before the 1980s, get older wall coatings or adhesives checked before drilling, sanding or removing them, rather than assuming what's underneath.
Adhesives, fillers & paint
Read the manufacturer's label and safety data sheet before using any adhesive, filler or paint, work in a ventilated room, and keep products away from open flame if the label says they're flammable. Standard MDF panels are not waterproof, and our moisture‑resistant (MR) range is moisture‑resistant rather than waterproof — neither should be installed where they'll have direct contact with water, such as inside a shower enclosure.
Working at height & small parts
Stairwell walls are often taller than a single room wall — use a stable step ladder rather than a chair or stool, never overreach, and ask someone to steady the ladder if you're working alone. Cut MDF edges can be rough until sanded, so wear gloves when handling panels, and keep panel pins, screws and other small fixings away from young children.
Aftercare & maintenance
Once it's installed and painted, here's how to keep it looking right.
Installation FAQs
Quick answers to what customers ask us most before they start fitting.
Can I install the panels myself?
Yes — our panelling, dado rails and mouldings are designed for DIY installation using the tools listed on this page, and no trade qualification is needed for a standard wall. See "Is professional installation required?" above for the few situations where we'd suggest bringing in a tradesperson.
Do I need adhesive, fixings, or both?
It depends on your wall type and the weight of the product. Lightweight slatted panels on a sound wall often need adhesive alone; dado rails, heavier mouldings, or extra peace of mind call for adhesive plus panel pins or screws into the studs or masonry behind the surface. See "Wall types & fixing methods" above.
What if my wall isn't flat, or has old plaster?
Panelling can disguise minor unevenness, but loose, crumbling or damp plaster should be repaired and fully dried out first. If you're unsure what condition your wall is in underneath an existing finish, it's worth checking — or asking a tradesperson — before you commit adhesive or fixings to it.
Can I install over wallpaper or tiles?
Loose or bubbling wallpaper should be removed first, as adhesive won't bond reliably to it. Tiled surfaces can usually be panelled over once lightly abraded or degreased, using an adhesive rated for non‑porous surfaces — check the adhesive manufacturer's guidance for your specific tile finish.
I'm in a rented property — what should I check first?
Check your tenancy agreement and get your landlord's written permission before drilling, gluing or painting, since wall alterations are typically a tenant's responsibility to clear first. This is a good situation in which to consider hiring a tradesperson, both for the finish and for any guarantee your landlord may want to see.
Where do I find instructions for the exact kit I bought?
Open the product page for the item you ordered and look for the "Installation" tab — it lists the specific panel count, dimensions and recommended fixing method for that kit. Use this page for the general background, tools and safety information that applies across our whole range.
Get in touch & company information
Stuck mid‑project or want to check something before you start? We're a small UK team and reply directly — no call centres, no chatbots pretending to be human.
Contact us
- Office Phone+44 33 0043 9923
- Emailinfo@lunaireworks.com
- Live ChatAvailable on the website during business hours
- Business HoursMon–Fri, 9:00 AM–5:00 PM (GMT, UK)
Registered company details
Lunaire Works is a trading name owned and operated by STERZEAL HATS LIMITED, a company registered in England and Wales.
- Registered company nameSTERZEAL HATS LIMITED
- Company registration no.13249070
- VAT numberGB433989551
- EORI numberGB084160128000
- Registered address126 Newark Avenue, Peterborough, PE1 4NP England, United Kingdom
Ready to get started?
Browse the full range, or message us with your wall type and project size — we manufacture every panel ourselves, so we can usually point you in the right direction.
